Given the state of the chain tensioner, I was certain now that I had to do the timing chains. I feel that -two- complete crankshaft revs - corresponding to four camshaft revs - would constitute a sensible go-forward indication. My experience tells me before it's to late you will notice sounds or noise coming from the chain. One-way check valves in the vacuum system often need replacing, as do the hoses. Next, slide the lower balance gear onto the crank. First, I used a prybar to hold the back of the pump's pulley in place while I removed the 4 T-30 screws that held the pulley wheel on.
The brass colored link should be over the timing mark on the front of the gear. I drove the car for 150 miles and changed the oil. I find that having a variety of 13mm box and open ended wrenches spanners, for you Brits out there is useful. It's going to cost you a couple hundred bucks for all the parts you need. A great many vehicles, and particularly those built in the last ten years or so, often use a Timing Chain for timing in the engine instead of a belt made of rubber. In general, though, you'll need to remove the power steering pump and bracket, the water pump, the water feed line that runs from the pump to the thermostat, the crank pulley, and last, but not least the nine hundred and seventy two T-40 bolts which hold the timing cover on, plus the two that come up from the oil pan. There isn't sufficient room to use the 'tap and turn' method that I'd employed so successfully on the other stubborn T-40 bolts.
Use a socket on a 6-inch extension to get these out, then push the pump back against the firewall to get it out of the way. If you would like to return an item or have questions about the process, please and one of our customer service experts will be happy to help. The entire time I've had it, the engine was always a little rattly on the serpentine belt side. Then I spend an inordiant amount of time blocking up the coolant passages, oil feeds, and bolt holes with cotton balls. Besides, after the belt, I had to loosen the alternator, and that for certain has to happen through the passenger side wheel well. Insert the crank pulley, and tighten the crank pulley bolt.
Timing Chain Components: 2 x Camshaft Sprocket 1 x Crankshaft Sprocket 1 x Chain Guide exhaust side 1 x Chain Guide tensioner side 1 x Chain Guide - Upper in valve cover 1 x Camshaft Chain 1 x Timing Chain Tensioner Seal 1 x Timing Chain Tensioner O-Ring Balance Shaft Components: 1 x Balance Shaft Chain 1 x Balance Shaft Chain Sprocket on crankshaft 1 x Balance Shaft Chain Sprocket exhaust side 1 x Balance Shaft Chain Sprocket intake side 1 x Balance Shaft Chain Idler Sprocket 1 x Balance Shaft Chain Guide - Upper 1 x Balance Shaft Chain Guide Tensioner 1 x Balance Shaft Chain Tensioner Additional Components 1 x Crankshaft Seal - Front Oil Pump Seal 55557231 1 x Valve Cover Gasket 8822041 1 x Anaerobic Sealing Compound 1 x Oil Pump O-Ring 9130600 2 x O-Ring Oil Cooler 11. You will definitely need a new Gasket and the bolts need to be torqued anyhow - I had done a couple in the past with a new gasket and I have never used loctite at all - never had an issue with it, truly. Thanks Noddy21 Are you using any loctite on the head gasket around the timing chain end of the head. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. We are very grateful if you leave a comment or reviews about this 2004 saab 9 3 timing chain replacement post. I fear that I may have possibly nicked a valve but I'll do a compression test before pulling the head , though I'm hoping that I wasn't too forceful when I felt obstruction as i hand-turned the crankshaft.
I'd very slowly loose coolant, needing a top-up every couple of months. With so much slack in the old chain now with varying amounts of cam backlash due to valve springs compression and release I'm afraid to roll in the new chain though I'm committed at this point. I had to go get a 10-inch adjustable crescent wrench and clamp that onto the end of extractor bit, and was finally able to break the screw loose. However, I need to know how to correct misalignment of the camshaft s w. Though I have a crane and an engine stand currently housed at my mother in law's house - that's another project , there simply isn't enough room for the car and the crane in front of it. I took the timing cover outside, along with the valve cover and all the other greasy parts and applied liberal amounts of engine degreaser. Several Saab repair shops also recommend Mobil 1 as it is good in minimizing the buildup of carbon and sludge.
I was looking through various YouTube videos, and I actually found one changing the balance chain but it was done with the engine already out of the car. Your thread made me think of my first timing belt changing 10 years ago. Grab a ½-inch breaker bar with a 24-inch handle, and get an 18 or 24 inch extension and the 27mm socket you used on the timing chain tensioner. In respect to the crank pulley positioning, it must be lined up on the timing mark on the crankcase to achieve Top Dead Center. Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. There's a small plastic plug in the bottom of the radiator, on the passenger side.
One of these guides the fixed one straddles the chain, and the other is hinged on a peg sticking out of the engine block. Use this on the bolt that secures the crank pulley to turn the engine clockwise until the notch on the back side of the pulley lines up with the ridge on the timing cover. I put a 19mm socket on the tensioner pulley, and pulled on it counter-clockwise to relieve the tension, and slipped the belt off. On the new chain, there will be some shiny brass colored links. The turbo blow-off valve can fail. It should go smoothly, and only take some gentle tapping with a rubber mallet to properly seat the cover. Remove the belt from the coolant pump pulley and slowly release the belt tensioner.
However, I need to know how to correct misalignment of the camshaft s w. Then, using your cardboard organizer, re-install all the bolts in the timing cover. I did not and did manage to get the job done. Behind it is the timing chain and guides. To facilitate refitting the belt can be marked at both the camshaft marking and the crankshaft marking. From budget to performance build, Melling timing chains offer you the coverage and choices you desire. In my case, I suspected that I had leaky valve stem seals.