Using my Vantage Pro, I've verified the operation of all sensors. Edit: some non-mechanical things I'm considering doing just to see if they help. Now the idle is somewhat better, around 675-750rpms I'd say, but still rough and, I think, too low. Otherwise, I can't find any faults. I have owned four of them, all had the same problem. I'm thinking this is a good next step. To be replaced under warranty.
I tried recording a video but the mic on my iPhone just picks up more ambient noise then the popping. We used the depression side. I'll try to get a vid from in the car and maybe look and see if I can hear it from the engine bay. No code at first, then misfire code. Using the factory module on the Encore, the O2's do not show up as active. The exhaust gasket and exhaust manifold were a proper fit.
Repair performed at Ford Mazda 6i uses same 2. After replacing many parts: O2 sensors ,purge valve,3way valves, plugs, and checking all hoses and no cure I discovered on another site that the Pcv valve and hose are behind the air intake. I knew that Mazda loved their intake tuning valves, but wasn't sure if the 2. The first time, it felt like the gear had slipped out when I drove out. I see that you have the intake from the 2. Got off the highway, parked and watched coolant drain out.
I'd take it to the dealer, explain the issue and hope you can repeat it for them. Swing and a miss for me Thanks for checking that one, anyway! No issue found, if it re-occurs, dealership would like me to bring in at no charge. When dirt builds up in the throttle body and Idle Air control valve,, it would restrict the amount of air getting into the intake manifold. After update a code indicatinig Oxegen sensor 1 defective. This issue was discovered during the repair and was not the reason the car was brought in. Carbon deposits may accumulate on the spark plugs, which may cause plug fouling. These engines are pretty tough.
In the mornings, when I initially turn on the car to warm it up, it doesn't feel as bad. This does not surprise me though given use of the 2. Was sticking open causing engine not to maintain proper temperature. I will top off tonight. Do you mean the engine is surging when coming to a stop? By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms no start, high idle, misfire etc. They generally throw parts at it. Replaced pump and housing, pulley and drive belt.
The mazda6 forums seem to be a bit light on tech. Belts and pulley replaced under warranty. You can stand up and reach under the manifold and work it on. Ran poorly like always with the cover off. I'd be looking for a vacuum leak first though.
One day my car did not start, the engine reved up but died immediately. Once it actually did stall. I see that you have the intake from the 2. I'd be looking for a vacuum leak first though. I drove it ~100 miles home, no change in noise, no other symptoms.
Code for large evap leak. One thing nobody has commented on is in my very first post. Furthermore, I've noticed that when I have my lights are on and my car is idling ruff and about to shut off the lights get very dim. He said they teach that at Mazdaspeed school!! Oil discovered in coolant, rust already obvious, car was scrapped. Isn't this noteworthy in some way? Standard tune-up that replaced spark plugs. Mileage improved greatly after the fix. .
With the pre-cat O2 removed and no gage, performance does not change. I was going to ask you about timing, but then I saw that the correct tools were used! Their is no check engine light and no autozone in Germany and I'd rather stay away from taking it to their shops, price is kinda high. O2's are new with the swap. Air intake hose was cracked. The squealing is still around, but not as bad as before. Even the slightest opening of the valve had an effect. This is after I replaced all six of them a few years prior at around 80,000 miles.