It cranks, but will not fire up. If so, expect the little round seals at the valve cover are shrunken. So, I put in a new coil and the car still will not start-it cranks but does not start. I've never had a problem with this car in 4 yrs. While driving my check engine light came on. Unused pins can be taken from B2 or B11.
Coat the back of the new ignitor with a thin, even coat of heat-transfer silicone grease; otherwise, it won't last long. Connect the A7 wire to the 4 injector yellow wire. Started on 3 cylinders, when with a copied key it would not start at all. My son has a 1990 Honda Civic that won't start. You can also test the ignition switch: XpL0d3r, Thanks for the reply.
We think both of them are. He didn't get any spark. I pulled over and stopped the car and it would not restart after that. To test for spark, you should first perform a simple spark test; then you can itself. Some models have a wire located at B12.
I am also getting compression. Label these wires for later use. Hey, If you guys know where I can get that stuff for cheap, that would be great. The distributor itself is firmly attached not loose or anything. It's possible, see if the plugs are black and oily on the end, if this is the case then it is possibe. After I posted my first message today, I went and changed the spark plug wires too.
It just died one day and never would crank back up. After i did the tune-up i started it and it ran great so i went in for the night. I may be mistaken, but I thought I read somewhere that the wires were to be switched on the tps due to the motor rotation difference. Car has a new battery and the alternator has checked out good. The distributor cap is only about a year and a half old, along with the rotor. Is that what you would say? When this is checked and….
We opened up the air intake chamber and my neighbor tried spraying some kind of starter fluid in there. Perhaps he is mistaken when he says that. Repeat this process of turning it out and in over and over. I checked the ground and it seems to be good. As soon as the light came on the car became sluggish and had problems shifting into higher gear. It must be the correct grade for the engine.
So, I will just deal with some of those problems as they come up. However, the 2nd and subsequent attempts, the car seemed to not want to start at all. Want even more diagnostic training? I'm guessing since the micro chip inside the key has a connection with the ignition and the ecu, the car realized that this was the actual main key and engaged the fuel, spark, and air components to work together? Run these wires into the engine compartment and label them for later use. What do you know, factory key started it right up. It did not want to accelerate.
Could someone please tell me how to get the rotor off of the distributor? I probably shouldn't have done it, but I needed to get home. If they were the root problem, he said the car should have still started up for a second with that starter fluid. So, I don't think the timing is off in the distributor. Insert one end of the cord into the next to 1 on the right hand side and press the other side of the cord on spark plug number 3. It does sound to me like it could be the ignition switch.
I am living 1,000 miles away for now and can only help via phone. Then, I cranked the engine while someone else looked at the injectors. If you have a multimeter, you can test them. What is most likely on this car? They both appear to be in good shape and attached well. I will take one down to a local parts retailer later today and see if they can test it somehow, but just seems unlikely that all 4 would go at once. The copied key worked for a year now since I have had it and occasionally drove the car. It was snowing a couple days ago.