If this bumber is hit usually it doesnt take a whole lot to deploy it. I've got a 94 Grand-Am with a 3100 motor and a 4T60e trans. I'm going 2 run a vacuum pressure test on it and c if that could b it prob. Although it does it with difficulty and for the first seconds the engine sounds like it is going to turn of and it smokes black. Does any body has any idea what can cause this issue? This goes on until the car warms up then it runs fine. Since 1919, Standard Motor Products has engineered a full line of engine management products, including ignition parts, sensors and on-board computers.
Also there is a computer for the airbag system that… What size engine? Some people have suggested trying to put a small screw in the plastic outer ring and use a vice-grip… I have a Pont. Next thing I'm going to look at, and probably should have looked at sooner is the Intake Air Temperature sensor. I've replaced the Temp sensor and it's had the same issue. I cleaned it out what I could but did not help. I've checked the fuses, they where good. I've just eliminated the leaks that the car once had by replacing the lower intake gasket. You Could check the physical integrity of your wires.
I have no clue at what else to look at. And it never would go n low gear or od then the trans went out and i put a new 4T60e trans in and it still doing the same thing. Any ideas what may be causing this? You think it could be the gauge it's self? If the check engine light is on, get the code scanned to see what might be causing the trouble. Reconnect the plug, reset the code, and you don't get it again. There is usually a sensor behind the front bumber that also senses impact.
You'd have to try and find the exact cause. If it idled fine before you did the heads, it has to be something you did in the reassembly process. You must replace the entire wheel bearing to fix the sensor, but chances are that if the sensor goes the wheel bearing is leaking. Power steering pump, must be removed before you can gain access to the camshaft sensor. The fans seem to run but they are running slower and quieter then I remember, the oil is clean, and there is no sign of coolant in it. I've ohmmed out the harness and it is good.
If the temp gauge is going into the red, it is overheating whether you hear it or not. Anonymous said: I have a 95 Chevy Lumina 3. Four Seasons is a leading automotive aftermarket supplier of air conditioning and cooling system parts. You'll get an error code for a bad part, not a bad connection. The wires are not frayed or broken. At time it will work fine, other times it will completely drop out and the electric fans will kick on.
Get it checked out soon, or you'll end up losing the engine. I then pressurized the system, ran the air out etc. Parts starting to cost more then i payed for the car. I've replaced everything I know to and no luck wen idling it will overheat should both fans kick on or just one of them? It had been running fine, idle it had heat in the cab, but driving around the city the heat comes and goes in bursts. If your air bag warning light is on then the clock spring located in the steering wheel and could go bad without warning could be bad. It starts fine when the engine is cold.
The wheel bearing is a sealed unit and should not leak, but over… I don't know if it's the same for all engines, but on a 2. That's my few cents, good luck! If any one could help let me know something please. If the engine is a 3. The thermostat has been changed twice in the last month, the sensor as well. The is one on either side, so you will need a mechanic to pull the error code out of the car's computer to determine which side it is.
Even if you didn't mess with it, re-seat every major multi-connectors you can find. Taking the car on the highway the temperature gauge has hit the roof, sprayed out some coolant out of the overflow, but when I released some of the pressure via rad cap it drove fine on the highway, steady heat minus in the cab, as it still comes and goes I keep feeding it coolant but it does not want to keep it even though the cold level in the res is at the bottom when I checked the car cold. I have been having problems with the Temperature gauge working when it wants to. . I highly doubt you just have a bad temp sensor. When I got the car every not and then it starts at high idle about 2,500 rpm.
I also removed the engine mount, to ease removal of power steering pump. You should re-check all your connections, and make sure all vacuum lines are connected and routed properly. Then it starts to function very normal and acceleration is good. It runs fine when the outside temp is over 50. I can barely step on the gas pedal when it is warm and it will start right up. So browse around our great selection of car parts and let's help with that auto repair or car upgrade! Either that or someone cut through a whole Bundle of wires or maybe just 1 important one : It Could be Security related. Ive had some good battles with it, but it seems to always win.