He called later in the day, and said I should do both. Be careful not to damage the hose if you plan to reuse it. Loosen the brackets that hold them if you don't want to disconnect them and had to drain refill them. And we are modifying this hose below Now here is the hard bit, Trying to get the thermostat into the hose. I had to remove a few hoses from above that just could not be gotten to from below and it was very tight - a real puzzle to do.
Put everything back together in the reverse order. This has been my first experience with an electric water pump, and it seems both complex and expensive, even as compared to the limited e39 M5 stuff I dealt with over 27,000 miles and 5 years of fun in that car. I had to cut the hose clamp from the pump to manifold - the clamp was clocked in a position it was impossible to get to. Before you remove the thermostat, take a close look at it. Listen for an audible click to confirm the clip has engaged. Push the thermostat in slowly and making sure it is straight and even, It will take some force and you can use something flat to push it in. You can see our subject vehicle has quite a bit of corrosion on the sealing O-ring.
If you meet any significant resistance, back out the bolt and start over. The thermostat might be the likely problem. If you wait to shut off the engine until the needle reaches the red arc and the temperature warning light illuminates, it is possible that the vehicle has already sustained engine damage. Switch the ignition on, but don't start the engine. Set heat control to maximum. Got everything off and new pump on now just a couple more hoses to get back on the new tstat and ill be good to go! When both rivets and the engine driven fan are released, pull the shroud and fan carefully upwards.
It came with the profile gasket shown. You will need air powered tools or heavy and good wrenches. Be sure to work with a cool engine and confirm that the cooling system lacks pressure before opening the cooling system. I wrote the instructions out and forgot to remove the extra sentence when I edited the post. The water pump on the N54 engine has more cooling responsibilities than ever before.
After i did this mod and just over one week of driving i can confirm that my temperatures stay within spec and my gearbox seems to be much smoother with gearchange. Basically every-time the yellow icon will come up I stopped not letting the red icon to show up. Slowly fill the expansion tank to maximum. Prying at them does nothing. A few days later, the battery level was very low.
I have the new pump, t-stat, coolant, and pump bolts, but am not sure if I'm missing something, another step to remove something that would improve access? Took me much longer but I have big hands : getting everything out was the tough part for me. The top one is easy accessible and loose it just enough so you can carefully maneuverer and turn the cooler out of the way. An open thermostat is not as bad but is still not ideal - the coolant is always cool, with the temp needle always reading in the cool range. The new thermostat is quite different looking, all plastic construction where the old one is metal. E90 Thermostat has 4 hoses attached to it.
To kguarnotta in Boston, the thermostat has to come out to do the pump, so if as others have commented you just replace the thermostat, and then the pump later goes, you could have saved a bit getting them done together. Sorry about the long first post, thanks for reading, and hope someone with a 535xi can chime in and give me some pointers! There is a clip securing the hose fitting so unclip the bracket and slowly work out the hose connection from the radiator. It's worth watching the Bavarian Auto videos since the pump, thermostat, connections bolts, hoses, electrical are all the same for the 535i and 535xi - Access to everything is where the 535xi suffers greatly, because of the subframe and layout for the additional front drive. Thanks again for this thread providing inspiration in some of the dark moments of the day. I always make sure to position the band as follows so it's easy to get a screwdriver in there to reinstall it. Be prepared to catch dripping coolant in a drain pan. If your vehicle is experiencing cooling issues, chances are the thermostat is the cause.
Depending on where you have to work on your car snow today it might be money well spent to have your indy do it! ThanksSlack off both bolts and reseat the cooler into the manifold, and tighten both up a little at a time so you are pressing it back centrally. Sorry replaced it on a 08 535i. It also means when a main stat fails - You still get to temp If this one fails, you can change it for less than £10 and one hours work. It just doesn't seem right! Start the engine and check you coolant levels and check for any leaks, Now you should be good to go. Conclusion Next to brakes, replacement of the thermostat is the most common maintenance item performed on these cars. Remember to plug up the lower coolant hose to prevent any debris from falling in it Arrow 1. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste.
Common symptoms include prolonged warm-up at highway speeds from the thermostat being stuck open, or consistent overheating issues from the thermostat being stuck in the closed position. The reason why I tried the purge cycle was because the car almost overheated yesterday. Theme days You're welcome to post anything you want within our rules. The car should be pulled over to the side of the road and the engine shut off immediately to prevent major engine damage. Give it a half dozen good whacks -- the sharper and harder the better -- since that will tend to tighten the fan much in the same way as an impact wrench and help prevent the water pump pulley from slipping under the belt.