No need to go overly tight on any of these parts. Unfortunately, no dipstick here so I just add 9 and measure out exactly 0. This motor based on by removing two cylinders and turn it into a V8 with 4 liter capacity. This should come in a complete kit including 2 gaskets and 2 copper crush washers. This is a far better option than draining some more oil from underneath the motor. I start with the rear or main reservoir and loosen the plug. I was told that the engine needed the oil to seep into the various seals and what not.
The drain plugs are reusable if they are in good shape, which mine were. Drive the car around a little and check the electronic dipstick to make sure the car is happy! Having the right tools is a must before you try to change the oil in your car. Be sure to put on the new crush washers. For anyone changing the oil I suggest putting in 8L and then checking your oil level indicator afterward. They can be installed on stock internals and without problems pass many thousands of km.
I also throw on some leather gloves to protect my hands. The car was low enough that I had to drive it up some wood planks for going up the ramps: Open hood. Good news is that after a blistering, supersonic 5am run out to the beaches of Long Island this morning my Oil level is back to normal. I'll check it again after driving. If you want 700+ horsepower, then you should decreased compression ratio and spend much more money. When I changed the oil myself and put it in it took less than 8.
Torque the plugs down to 25 Nm 18 ft-lb , which is not that much force. With such stroker kit and cams, your naturally aspirated S65 will show more than 500 horsepower. It's that plastic knob in the second photo, midway between the front and rear sumps. Greg - Thanks for posting. Timing range of camshafts: intake 58 °, exhaust 48 °. With oil still left within the engine, when you try to add in 8. To get an idea of how much oil the engine holds, you multiply 8.
On an exhaust installed headers 4-1. I poured about the same amount of fresh oil into the bottom before reinstalling the filter. I am tired of reading about confusion. I would also do the trans and final drive at the initial 1200 miles and then every 30k. As a precaution, when loosening up the drain plugs, I take a long socket extension with a swivel elbow to give me some room away from the plug. The capacity of your oil pan is 8. Use the leather gloves for protection.
It comes out much easier that way. I read on an invoice it's 9 liters but just want to make sure. Replace the used copper crush washers and reinstall the drain plugs. When the oil is finished draining completely I move underneath the car. There are certain safety precautions to take when changing hot oil. Do your research before you take your car apart. Seems like quite a long time between oil change.
Oil Change how-to for the E9X M3. That was only for the first 10K or so, then it settled down. Good news is that after a blistering, supersonic 5am run out to the beaches of Long Island this morning my Oil level is back to normal. That is why in the next generation of M3 used V8 — S65B40. The cylinder block is the same as on S85, cylinder spacing — 98 mm, rod length is 140.
The o-ring at the top is tricky, will probably required a flathead to get it off. Usually running the car for less than a minute will get the job done. If it had a disptick there would be no question. When changing the oil in an M3 you should do it while the oil is warm. This is including some flat out, max speed runs, so the E92 is actually much better as far as Oil consumption goes than the E46. You can pop them out using a flat bladed screw driver. While underneath my M3 I locate the 2 drain plugs under the motor.