I think the clutch slave failed do to being extended so far when the old clutch exploded I have ordered a new clutch slave and am going to make a homemade pressure bleeder any tips on unclogging bleeder screws I am going to start with some deep creep penetrating lube and heat if I have too on the siezed one. However, since it is also heavier than organic disks, it will wear out the transmission synchros faster than a lighter disk. Don't buy more clutch than you realistically need since it's normally at the loss of drivability. I tried fitting the white plastic clip to the pedal first, then fitting the pedal, then using the pedal leverage to push the white plastic clip on to the master cylinder. Was fine after I'd changed gear and been fine since. You'll save more than 60% from what a dealer would charge.
Failure to keep this relationship equal changes the force that the lever arm of the pressure plate springs. The hose connects to a housing that is bolted to the engine. Although mine hadn't sheared I opted to buy a new pedal and had it welded for extra strength. Mine does the same thing, I have over 150k miles on the factory clutch and its nearing replacement. This ensures that the pressure plate stays flat while you tighten it to the flywheel. As they are hydraulic in nature, clutch master cylinders are often prone to issues with leaks that will interfere with its ability to displace fluid. Heavy clutch pedal after a longish stint on the motorway.
Then remove and replace the oil filter on the engine. Or is it just as easy to get everything else done at the same time. This will hold everything in place while you torque down the 6mm triple square bolts and allow the transmission to mate up with the engine. Afterwards fit the return spring again. It feels like its moving around a bit and feels odd on the foot. You can see the mark the switch has made on my clip.
Strange noises that change when you push in the clutch pedal can indicate a pilot bearing or throw-out bearing beginning to fail. Does gearbox oil need draining etc with a clutch swap? Some report more driveline chatter in neutral. It is a solid piece of cast iron with a starter ring gear that is heat shrunk onto the outer diameter. If I was you mate I would replace master cylinder oh yikes. The best way to tell what clutch you have is to look through the clutch inspection window. Although there was a god awful scrape when I had to push it over the curb.
I'm still confused I guess. Sometimes at traffic lights, when I go to pull away, the clutch's biting point has suddenly changed to be right at the bottom of the pedal travel, so it makes me almost stall cause it's doing something odd. Or is it just as easy to get everything else done at the same time. I wouldn't advise attempting this without a shop manual. I have also discovered by accident a way that makes the job much easier I've found you can lock the pedal right back and then slot the spring into place without the need for cable ties etc.
He said he had problems getting a good pedal after bleeding. Make sure that you thoroughly clean the surfaces, both the housing and the engine before you try to put it all back together. Ive noticed this on mine too lately,though it was me going abit mad but at the weekend was out in the car n i changed gear,the clutch pedal didnt return as normal,i noticed it straight away n had to physically lift it back up with my foot,wasnt happend since or before but i have noticed sometime the pedal feels heavier to press then once ive pushed it and changed gear its ok again. Ceramic clutches are harder than sintered iron and is part of what feramic clutches are a blend of. I think I might be a bit dense but I can't locate on line or part number a spring like you describe. I also tried moving the shifter position around but it made no difference and so far the brakes seem fine too. I only had metal rod type o bush.
Check all of your spark plugs, if they smell like gas they are burned out. Does it go into the gears but it's hard to push them into place with out grinding sounds. It's under really really high pressure. I have no idea what this does. Just an over center spring. I might just try replacing the clutch master cylinder.
But I've brought the car up to the lakes this week and all was fine as usual and I was sat in 6th for about an hour on the motorway and as I came off I went to change gear and the clutch seemed much stiffer than usual! In a gas car, torque capacity for the disk should be at least 10-20% greater than your target torque. Hopefully this will give you some insight, if it's unclear I can try and make it easier to read. If you can't lock the pedal against the bracket then try holding it back with one hand and use the other to insert the spring. Also interested in what exactly is involved, i. Sintered iron is harder than feramic. A damn sight cheaper than their quote to repair it - they reckoned it was the master cylinder!! The increased load on the crankshaft bearings and hydraulic system is only when the clutch pedal is down.
It's actually a clutch which you can slip without damaging the clutch material. Figure 2 If you are really lucky when you shut the car off the six clutch access holes yellow arrow, one shown line up with the six cut outs in the pressure plate red arrow, one shown. One thing I've learnt with owning an R32 is to never expect miracles! Take the cable off at the clutch arm end obviously,unless it snapped,then strip the panel in the driver's footwell. It's a hex-head bolt sticking out of the clutch pedal arm down at the base, and you'll see it. I mean someone bring the kit, and we can all do all the cars that are knackered? This is the stop you need to get back onto the piston, it's hard and you need a bit of strength, I ended up using needle nosed pliers and a rag to protect everything, but I was also weak from the aforementioned accident, you will hear it 'click' or more snap into place not wanting to move again. I renewed, best money I have ever spent, you don't plan for these things but they happen. If you are beginning to see the early signs; spongy pedals, excessive free play, and grinding noises all indicate problems with the clutch or hydraulic system.
It is essential that the clip slides perfectly into the recess and locks into place so take your time to get it right. Flick off covers and undo the7mm Allen bolts and remove the same. If the brake system has been drained then you have to bleed that one first else you won't get a good brake pedal. I decided to try just bleeding the clutch and changed the slave cylinder. I would recommended resurfacing the flywheel if you have any doubt if it's reusable as-is. I'm pretty sure that I'll start to get the non returning pedal soon.