When I replaced the condensor last year I recall the whole fan unit came out in one piece and the only electrical connection going to it was this plug. No longer stranded in Las Vegas. I'm going to the Goodwood Revival in a couple of weeks and there's usually a long queue to get in and I'll need my fan, but neither do I want to purchase a new 'module' if it isn't necessary. The control module found behind the headlights 027 545 80 32 on other models is not present on this vehicle. Running a car hot for a long period of time can lead to other damages like a blown head gasket. Nov 28, 2012 The cooling fan relay is located in the engine compartment just behing the left headlamp. Third, apply power to the fan motor directly from the battery and see if it turns.
The spikes are the controller attempting to start the fan, but it detects no feedback, and kills the power. More than two relays and a resistor I'll bet! This will put you right over relay. Try peeking behind the bumper and see if the left side frame rail has an alimunum box anchored to it. It is underneath a black cover that is behind where all the fuses are located drivers side near the power brake booster on the firewall. What controls auxlilary cooling fan activation on a '97 E 420 210.
Which uses Two different relay paths and the Dinosaur Resistor to power the fans. The only way to fix this issue is by getting the. Or its wire short issue. The problem I've seen is water getting into the fuse and relay panel and causing various electrical problems. There is a access panel below the passengers side rear seat, just unclip the plastic panel from the top.
My drivers: 1987 190D 2. If your fans are not working this fuse may just need to be replaced and not the entire relay. You get to it from inside the engine compartment. Is there a cycle module perhaps N65 that is responsible for activating the fans? From this point forward Gilly will be able to provide you with more assistance because some of my info may be outdated. Also did you jump the fans at the radiator connection or did you jump them at the electrical connector of the control unit that you replaced? But still no fan activation.
Now it is possible that the hot spot in the rad is blocked preventing the hot air from triggering the bi metal strip that engages the clutch on the Visco coupling Hmm. Was that test feature available on the '97s? Cooling fan fuse 47 20amp. Get a new belt while you're ordering. If the relay doesn't plug into the fuse and relay panel, then the 40 amp fuse does. I'd try the new motor, since you know that you need one.
However, module can be heard and felt to click on a regular basis; approx 1 sec after the click, the voltage at group D momentarily jumps to approx. Group E consists of 7 pins, all of which are used; function is unknown. I can't say for sure that you have the part listed in the link. If not, there are 2 sending units, One is for the computer and the other is for the fan relay. Letting this type of issue linger can lead to a number of issues that can cause damage to your car. On the cover you can see the various fuses and relays that are located in the fuse center. There are cooling fan test connectors built into the wiring harness near the left strut tower.
Any one of these could cause them to not work, rather then just replacing parts an wasting money you should take it to the repair shop! If you notice that the cooling fans run for a very long time without shutting off, then. I found the problem: the aux fan is not kicking in at all. Last week on a warm sunny day, stuck in town traffic I got the feeling that my temp gauge needle had crept a little higher than normal with no effort from my cooling fan. So, since the activation failed, is it safe to assume the new module is bad? Group B has 2 pins; group F, one pin. Group D two pins is the dedicated power supply to aux fan.
The cooling fan relay is controlled by the cooling fan temperature switch located on the rear of the engine. I wonder how much the aux fan controller costs? The motor is on the left, and the right side is a pully-driven idler, so you only need to replace the motor and left blade. Installed new fan control module from M-B. I hope I have been helpful. Later in the evening I drove the car to warm it, then sat in a car park waiting for the engine temperature to rise to start the fan again. Sorry I'm not all that well versed or at least had alot of experience with this exact setup, I'm more familiar with the 210's with the fan control module in behind the left side of the front bumper, I've tested and replaced lots of those modules. I tried to lock it manually and I'd got no chance.